Castellani’s Etruscan Jewelry: A Legacy of Ancient Revival

During the early 19th century, a surge of archaeological discoveries unearthed stunning examples of ancient Etruscan jewelry, particularly from tombs in central Italy. These artifacts, characterized by their intricate gold granulation, fine filigree work, and bold, symbolic motifs, fascinated art historians and collectors alike. Inspired by these discoveries, Fortunato Pio Castellani (1794–1865), the patriarch of the Castellani firm, sought to revive the lost techniques of Etruscan goldsmiths and bring their aesthetic into the modern era. 

To achieve the high level of detail and craftsmanship seen in Etruscan jewelry, Castellani and his successors, including his sons Alessandro and Augusto, devoted themselves to studying ancient techniques. They experimented with gold alloys, perfected the art of granulation—a process in which tiny gold spheres are fused to a surface without visible solder—and integrated classical motifs such as palmettes, lotus flowers, and mythological symbols into their designs. Their commitment to authenticity was so profound that their jewelry was often mistaken for actual antiquities.

Their pieces were displayed at international exhibitions, earning widespread acclaim for their beauty and historical significance. The firm’s success also inspired other jewelers to explore historical revival styles, influencing the evolution of jewelry design well into the 20th century.

By blending the past with the present, we worked with the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston to recreate jewelry inspired by a Castellani brooch from their collection.